Venice the Menace

Venice (after a brief stop in Padua). Video, photos, thoughts after the jump.

A not-un-pretty place, this "Venice"

I planned my Italian month very deliberately moving from south to north, knowing my aversion to heat meant that I had to try to plan accordingly lest I spend the entire month sweating and crying. The one major downside: this would put me in Venice at the start of July.

My favorite trips are almost always in shoulder season or the off season. Seeing cities when they’re not crushed with tourists, when the weather is a little milder, and when everybody’s a bit more relaxed is what it’s all about for me. I loved visiting Paris in November (even if Paris is one of those cities that doesn’t really have an off season). Portland Maine is gorgeous and idyllic when the cruise ships ease up in late fall and winter. And Venice in July seemed likely to be something of a disaster.

Well, idiot, think again. It was stunning, more than living up to its reputation as a magical place.

The thing that struck me was how easy it was to slip off the tourist conveyor belt from the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. It’s a small island – you can walk between most any two points on it in about 30 minutes, even with all the necessary zig-zagging over canals and rios. But as soon as you duck off into a tiny side street that looks like it might not go anywhere, 90% of the crowds fade and it’s just you and a handful of others exploring the much-more atmospheric city that lies in wait.

Not to mention: much cooler. Narrow winding streets provide ample shade, and often a breeze cutting through the alleyways to further cool you down while the major thoroughfare bakes in the heat.

In short, if you want to survive Venice and you’re going during the summer months: get off the main passageways, start your day at dawn, and nap from about lunch to 5 pm.

The view from my AirBnB window. Holy moly this was a gorgeous spot. Everybody! Stay in Dorsoduro!

There are sights – St. Mark’s is impressive, particularly if you go at 11:30 when they illuminate the  mosaics - and a number of Important Museums. But for a two-night visit, I was mostly content to just wander the streets and climb the bridges and soak it all in. It was a stunning place and I cannot wait to go back, with a little more time to get out into the lagoon to visit the smaller islands surrounding the main one.

It was a great end to my time in Italy – overwhelming and peaceful all at once, full of long quiet stretches for contemplation and just enough of a jostling crowd to make me glad to arrive in Munich to a more-orderly, cooler, and more work-a-day environment.

Ciao for now, Venice: see you some November in the years to come